Tag Archives: adventure

Marco Giorgi

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Rolling on through to Lackey peak

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Salmon Dance

Beachies and crowded Keramas is what we all really came to surf this year.
Alex Chacon, Marco Giorgi & Matt Rodwell mixed it up for 2days the other week while we were in bali planing our next little Indonesian adventure “Lakey Peak” SAFE, KNOWN and EASY.
But why not give it a chance ?
So for now enjoy this fun little beachies waves while we pray,
for someone to send us the swell we desire.

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Mother Duck

The Mother Duck is heading home and summer camp is over.
No more shall we wake up to a fresh fruit platters, or come home from the surf with the aromas of a home cooked meal filling the house or our dirty washing magically going from the floor to folded fresh and clean at the end of our beds.
Oh how will we survive.

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Day Dreaming

The swells have been few and far apart this season for the most part. The crazy thing about this wonder land is even on the flattest of days you know there is an empty line up with fun waves rolling through waiting to be danced upon.
The lack of waves has driven us to be a bit more creative with our days an searching is what we did. Trying to find that little magical session with just you and your friends. Only a surfer will know the feeling of seeing your mate spat out of a barrel or stomping a massive turn in front of you. It’s indescribable, add the fact that you’s are the only one’s in the water for miles priceless.
These are the days you dream of. I tell you know, these days still exist in bali if you try a little.
We did.

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Who Needs A Car ……..

The swell is up and the call had been made to go hunting on the east coast for some early mooring caves.
The only thing is that we have 1 scooter and a 2hr scooter ride with 3 boards 2 backpacks 2 men and all the camera gear.
We load up at first light and make a run for it, giggling with cheeky grins on our face’s like two little kids in a candy store, as we cruse to the end of the drive way bottoming out exiting, our grins are wiped from our faces as we embark on the spine jarring adventure.

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My coney island baby.

Icy winds whip the horses up the incline. climbing higher and higher. the twisted faces all frozen in anticipation. they climb further. the ascent is building like an impending doom. the all too familiar sound of the crank clicking over and over dragging the carriages towards the heavens. there is anxious fear dancing in the pit of their stomachs. nearly at the top now. inhale, hold your breath. now the screams. loud piercing screams. the joy of fear and excitement. the knowledge of safety makes it fun to dance with fear. the cargo follows the track down an impossibly vertical decline. the idea that you are safe sits in the carriage next to you. keeping you warm. warm with the notion you will survive. only a few more twists and turns. you are almost out of breath. the ride is over. your voice box has been defiled. but you walk away with an almost triumphant grin. that was one hell of a rollercoaster.

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