Tag Archives: friends

Innersection

This people is very exiting, those of you how don’t know Alex Chacon here is a little bit about him.
He is Funny, little, quite, spiritual, humble and one of the most giving people i have every met.
He is a pro surfer originating in Brazil he moved over to Australia at the tender age of 14 by him self to Pursue a dream of becoming a pro Surfer, and where better than the Gold Coast.
He rode for O’neil for a number of years while competing on the pro juniors before making the leap across the the WQS with out the financial backing of any brands.
Working 80hrs a week as a chef in surfers paradise to save up enough money to give it a real go and be focused on just surfing, he followed his dream.

That was 2yrs ago now that money’s dried up.
Living comp to comp, prize cheque to prize cheque he trots around the world on a shoe string budget of a lower class indian scratching at the door to the top 32.

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In Ore and Amazed


We often dream of scoring perfect barrels with just our mate’s out to cheer each other on from the shoulder and some times over the falls when someone’s a little deep just to watch them eat shit but they go, because not that they really want to but to entertain the boys and be a legend if they pull it off.

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Rolling on through to Lackey peak

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Salmon Dance

Beachies and crowded Keramas is what we all really came to surf this year.
Alex Chacon, Marco Giorgi & Matt Rodwell mixed it up for 2days the other week while we were in bali planing our next little Indonesian adventure “Lakey Peak” SAFE, KNOWN and EASY.
But why not give it a chance ?
So for now enjoy this fun little beachies waves while we pray,
for someone to send us the swell we desire.

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Mother Duck

The Mother Duck is heading home and summer camp is over.
No more shall we wake up to a fresh fruit platters, or come home from the surf with the aromas of a home cooked meal filling the house or our dirty washing magically going from the floor to folded fresh and clean at the end of our beds.
Oh how will we survive.

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Day Dreaming

The swells have been few and far apart this season for the most part. The crazy thing about this wonder land is even on the flattest of days you know there is an empty line up with fun waves rolling through waiting to be danced upon.
The lack of waves has driven us to be a bit more creative with our days an searching is what we did. Trying to find that little magical session with just you and your friends. Only a surfer will know the feeling of seeing your mate spat out of a barrel or stomping a massive turn in front of you. It’s indescribable, add the fact that you’s are the only one’s in the water for miles priceless.
These are the days you dream of. I tell you know, these days still exist in bali if you try a little.
We did.

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